Warragul Bonsai Group
The Warragul Bonzai Group is a club which specialises in working with Bonsai’s. Some of its members also attend meetings of the Warragul & District Garden Club. However it is a great hobby for those without gardens. Check here for regular updates
Warragul Bonsai Group meets the third Thursday of each Month. New members are very welcome. Any enquiries contact Carol 0438 877393 or [email protected]
March 2025
Autumn is here and with leaf drop in deciduous species we can see our trees’ branch structure clearly. We will also prepare for wiring over winter as it is easier without leaves. Keeping in mind there are some species that don’t favour wiring, but will suit the clip and grow method of training. Zelcova or Japanese Grey Bark Elm is an example.
Looking at a branch or trunk with alternating buds we clip and later, wire for movement and direction. Choose a bud which faces the direction we want the new branch, watching for taper. No telegraph poles of dead straight trunk or branches. Later, when this new growth has established, wire in the movement.
With opposing buds, cut back to two buds. For example, in the growing season, Japanese maples will send out vigorous growth from this budded point with long nodules between each new set of buds. It is a must, that these be kept cut back to the earliest two buds, then the next two that will grow and then the next two that follow. This is called ramification.
Trim the crown (dominant apex) into a rounded top to enable the tree to direct its energy to the lower branches, otherwise the low branches will be lost. Take out thick branches in the crown, because taper is at its finest here. Lower branches can be left to prune up to two years but the crown should be trimmed 6 monthly or more.
The general rule if the individual tree will allow, branch selection should be ideally left, right, left.
It is important to turn the pot at least weekly or fortnightly a quarter or half turn. This will ensure the tree gets even sunlight and won’t develop a strong and weak direction.
The All Important Subject of Tools.
We can survive with the simplest of instruments we may already have in the garden shed. Sharp blade, pointy nosed pliers, pliers, tweezers and a folding pruning saw are a few. Then there are many specialist items we should have in our bonsai tool box.
Japanese are better manufactured over the Chinese counterpart. Stainless steel are better than steel, they won’t rust. These can become a little expensive but we can build our collection one by one, starting with branch cutters and scissors, then root pruners and wire cutters.
Different sized scissors for small and large trees or the job at hand. This is also important for branch cutters, tiny or quite large relative to the size of the branches being worked on. Profile choices are parrot beak or concave depending on the type of wound we want to leave on the tree. If the cut gets too difficult, don’t overwork your tools. If the cut becomes too challenging, go up a size, saves damage to the tool.
Branch splitters aren’t often used and could be left for the more experienced enthusiast. Similarly a Dremmel carving tool is used for more ambitious work.
Chopsticks, craft blades, toothbrush for algae or a soft wire brush are all handy. There is available a small specialist block to help keep the blade clean of sticky sap or use a light emery board. Always sterilise the tool between plants. Eucalyptus oil is a good cleaner after each session.
