Warragul Bonsai Group
The Warragul Bonzai Group is a club which specialises in working with Bonsai’s. Some of its members also attend meetings of the Warragul & District Garden Club. However it is a great hobby for those without gardens. Check here for regular updates
Warragul Bonsai Group meets the third Thursday of each Month. New members are very welcome. Any enquiries contact Carol 0438 877393 or Warragulbonsaigroup@gmail.com
Gazette Club Notes August 2025
There was much to discuss at the last club meeting with an entirely different Bonsai category to explore: group planting or the making of a bonsai forest. Often inferior trees that would have otherwise been poor examples of a single specimen display can be spectacular in a group planting. For example a tree that has a vacant side with no regrowth is a good choice as a part of a forest.
The first step is the selection of species. Some lend themselves to a forest, such as maples, elms and tea tree. The most important rule in your group planting is there must be just one species of different sizes. Mirroring nature, the one dominant tree has seeded the new, smaller offspring, creating a group. Select an odd number of trees to make up your group, until you have eleven, then the count is unimportant.
The next consideration is perspective. Dominant tree at the front and a little to the side as a focal point with smaller trees at the back and sides to give the illusion of distance. Place trees so you can see each individual from the front and possibly the side view. Avoid planting in a straight line and have unequal spaces between each tree. Sometimes wedges have to be cut into the root ball to allow two or more trunks to stand close together.
In the pot, soil should be mounded up above the rim of the pot. It looks good and gives the roots more room. Bends in trunks can be tilted in the same direction to give a wind swept appearance.
The overall silhouette of your group should be triangular with the dominant tree being thickest and tallest.
Warragul Bonsai Group meets the third Thursday of each Month. New members are very welcome. Our next meeting will be 7.30pm, 18th September. Located rear of the Community College Gippsland, 71 Korumburra-Warragul Rd, Warragul. Any enquiries contact Carol 0438 877393 or Warragulbonsaigroup@gmail.com
July 2025
It is very important to understand how the root system’s health mirrors everything happening above. Attention to root development is essential for a healthy root system which will maintain the health and vigour of a tree whilst feeding growth.
Although root pruning can be done in the dormant season in an emergency, the ideal time is spring when the roots are starting to grow. We are not dwarfing the tree, we are encouraging new fibrous feeder roots which will grow out from each cut root. The tree is maximising its ability to nourish the new bud growth.
A periodic check of the roots is advised throughout the year especially if the tree shows signs of ill health. In a natural cycle, some roots will just die off. Some roots may have rotted due to poor drainage, have a fungal problem, pest infestation or could be pot bound.
We can’t look at a tree’s root system without discussing Nebari. the exposed surface roots. Nebari is a major contributor in ageing and refining a tree. The direction and depth of the main surface roots can be manipulated. The tap root is removed and the tree placed on a plate or tile temporarily when planted. The Nebari is then encouraged to spread around the base of the tree on the surface instead of going deep.
The All Important Subject of Tools.
We can survive with the simplest of instruments we may already have in the garden shed. Sharp blade, pointy nosed pliers, pliers, tweezers and a folding pruning saw are a few. Then there are many specialist items we should have in our bonsai tool box.
Japanese are better manufactured over the Chinese counterpart. Stainless steel are better than steel, they won’t rust. These can become a little expensive but we can build our collection one by one, starting with branch cutters and scissors, then root pruners and wire cutters.
Different sized scissors for small and large trees or the job at hand. This is also important for branch cutters, tiny or quite large relative to the size of the branches being worked on. Profile choices are parrot beak or concave depending on the type of wound we want to leave on the tree. If the cut gets too difficult, don’t overwork your tools. If the cut becomes too challenging, go up a size, saves damage to the tool.
Branch splitters aren’t often used and could be left for the more experienced enthusiast. Similarly a Dremmel carving tool is used for more ambitious work.
Chopsticks, craft blades, toothbrush for algae or a soft wire brush are all handy. There is available a small specialist block to help keep the blade clean of sticky sap or use a light emery board. Always sterilise the tool between plants. Eucalyptus oil is a good cleaner after each session.
